My favorite destination there, and probably anywhere, is Playa Junquillal, which is about 70 kilometers from the Liberia airport. All but 16 kilometers are on paved roads. But, those 16 account for about half of the drive. Unless, you have previously been to Junquillal and and know what awaits, this road is enough to make you want to turn around and go elsewhere. The "gravel" is actually small boulders. Pot holes can break axles. Horses, livestock and children clearly have the right-of-way. It is not uncommon to see three vehicles, side-by-side, coming toward you from the other direction. It is literally bone-and-butt-jarring. Not to mention the dust that blinds you when other cars pass and the constant fear that a rock will fly through your windshield, doing damage that in Costa Rica would cost almost $2,000 to your economy sized rental SUV. (In Costa Rica, the insurance for rental cars usually is as much as the daily rental rate, and you're still not covered for everything. So that adds a little to the tension of driving.)
The most awaited landmark is the entry to Paraiso because then you know there are only 5 more kilometers to go.
Welcome to Paradise
As you enter Junquillal, a sign on the left makes the turn into the Guacamaya Lodge , my favorite hotel in Costa Rica. In addition to outstanding service, the restaurant is superb.
The cabinas
After checking in and having an Imperial at the Guacamaya bar, I dumped my gear in the cabina and headed to Rudy's to watch the second half of the Saints-Bears NFL playoff game. Rudy's is a relatively new restaurant/bar and is owned by Steve, an ex-pat from Florida. Steve, his wife Georgiana and bartender Gabriel, have made Rudy's a must stop for either breakfast, lunch or dinner. Plus, they are eager to provide guidance on what to do and other information about the area. Beers are cold and only about $1.40, and the daily menu board always has great food. My first tasting on this trip was a shrimp taco that was the best I've had anywhere. Another evening, I returned for Steve's fried corvina dinner special. It was incredible. The only problem was the portions were so huge that not even I could finish anything, except the Imperial or Pilsen cervazas.
Friendly staff and patrons at Rudy's. Gabriel is rear right.
I spent the next days hiking, doing some work thanks to the wireless Internet service at the Iguanazul Hotel (I did not mooch the service--I always ordered food and/or drink) and getting reacquainted with old friends and making new ones. Junquillal has the type of community spirit and neighborly interaction that urban planners and sociologists strive for, but rarely attain. The village population is a combination of Swiss, German, Italian, Canadian and U.S. ex-pats, as well as the native Ticos and the long-term tourists who come back year after year, many staying for several months at a time. From the Tico laborer to the wealthiest investor, you cannot help but be impressed by their expressions of pride in the community and the respect they hold for their neighbors and visitors.
Anyway, here are some photos (double-click on any photo to enlarge). Notice how crowded the beaches are, even in the "high" tourist season.
A daily ritual in Junquillal is to gather at the Iguanazul Hotel bar for "sunset". Not "happy hour." When finishing a meeting or conversation with someone anytime after lunch, they don't say "hasta luego" upon leaving, they say, "I'll see you at sunset."
Special thanks to Alice and Bernie, the splendid hosts and owners of the Guacamaya Lodge, and my good friends Dave and Lisa for their hospitality and kindness during my visit. Lisa continues to publish America's favorite political humor website, All Hat No Cattle and Dave is editor of Costa Rica's best and largest circulated English language newspaper.
More later...
